Episodes

  • Dr. Tyler Nelson: How to Test Critical Force and What to Do With the Results

    Dr. Tyler Nelson: How to Test Critical Force and What to Do With the Results
    Jun 24 2026
    Test YOUR Critical Force, break through plateaus, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Dr. Tyler Nelson returns to dive deep on Critical Force, including: How to test critical force Why it matters My critical force test Why MVC is still king How critical force tells us what to train Improving power endurance on and off wall The big change I’m making to my training now What boulderers should focus on kill Why so many pros don’t test finger strength Dr. Tyler Nelson's Critical Force Field Test is on the Intentional Climber app! Test your CF and get instant training recommendations from Tyler based on the results. Here are Tyler's other episodes to check out: https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-on-finger-strength/https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/expert-analysis-training-with-dr-tyler-nelson/https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-power-with-dr-tyler-nelson-free-preview/https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-pro-clinic-on-building-endurance-for-bouldering-and-sport-climbing/https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-stronger-wrists-stronger-climbing/https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-dr-tyler-nelson-on-how-to-maintain-and-gain-strength-beyond-age-35-free/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Critical Force Teaser 00:22 Show Intro and Focus 01:39 Critical Force Explained 05:20 Host Updates Australia 06:47 Meet Dr Tyler Nelson 08:05 Testing Protocol Breakdown 11:07 Interpreting Your Numbers 15:27 Energy Systems and Plateau 18:23 Testing Method Matters 23:58 Who Should Use This 25:43 Arc'teryx Academy Ad 26:59 What Results Mean Training 31:42 Route Goal Flower Power 33:28 Training Interventions Percentages 41:49 No Gear Testing Options 43:49 Treadwall for Endurance 45:28 How To Train From Metrics 47:38 Critical Force Takeaways 48:57 Power Endurance Priority 50:28 Training Tools Setup 52:09 Active Rest Explained 53:39 80 vs 60 Percent Blocks 56:11 Retesting and Progress 57:35 Elite Curve and Technique 01:01:47 Why Pros Skip Testing 01:04:00 More Quality Attempts 01:09:31 Repeater Protocol Details 01:11:41 In Season Projecting 01:14:52 Peaking for Fall Season 01:19:57 Outro and App Protocol 01:23:49 My Current Training Plan 01:27:25 Final Wrap Up - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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    1 hr and 29 mins
  • Pro Clinic: Angus Kille and Hazel Findlay on Goal Setting and Finding Our "Why" as Climbers

    Pro Clinic: Angus Kille and Hazel Findlay on Goal Setting and Finding Our "Why" as Climbers
    Jun 10 2026
    Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 150+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available! https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow In this Pro Clinic, mindset coach Angus Kille (with guest appearance from Hazel Findlay) explore: Process goals vs outcome goalsThe power of journaling and reflectionUsing thoughtful goals to mitigate fear of failure Finding your big WhyIs grade chasing a “bad” goal?Intrinsic vs extrinsic goals Setting S.M.A.R.T. goals Free access to the Mindset Makeover kit from Strong Mind: https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/course/mindset-makeover Explore all of Strong Mind's resources: https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/ Start your free 14-day Trial of the Intentional Climber app, and use code STRUGGLE to unlock mindset tools from Hazel Findlay and the Stronger Fingers program from coach Kris Hampton: https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast - The free version of this Pro Clinic is being brought to you at zero cost thanks to: Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Growth Mindset Hook 00:24 Pro Clinic Returns 00:47 Intentional Climber App 02:36 Why Goals Need Purpose 03:56 Meet Hazel and Angus 05:05 Mallorca Retreat Recap 06:27 Trip Goals and Intentions 08:10 Hazel on Goal Setting 10:44 Angus Evolves His Goals 12:30 Meltdown Project Tactics 18:23 Outcome vs Process Goals 23:53 Find Your North Star 27:09 Ryan Shares His Why 32:17 App Break Intentional Climber 34:48 Digging Deeper Than Progress 44:19 Finding Your Why Support 45:47 Strongmind Resources Explained 46:24 Mindset Frames Growth Mindset 49:24 Bad Why External Values 54:12 From North Star To Goals 55:44 Process Vs Outcome Goals 01:01:05 Intrinsic Vs Extrinsic Motivation 01:07:35 Staying Intrinsically Focused 01:11:35 SMART Goals Without Overload 01:16:35 Distill Your Why Mantra 01:18:19 Wrap Up Links Newsletter 01:21:22 Host Reflection North Star 01:26:24 Intentional Climber App Updates 01:28:09 Final Thanks And Support - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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    1 hr and 30 mins
  • Noah Wheeler: Sending Burden, Finger Training (and Injury), the Next Proj, and the Dab Heard Round the World

    Noah Wheeler: Sending Burden, Finger Training (and Injury), the Next Proj, and the Dab Heard Round the World
    Jun 3 2026
    Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Elite climber Noah Wheeler explores: Specific training for BurdenThe dab ascent and what happened afterIs Burden really V17?The change that unlocked the sendBoard climbing vs hang boardingMindset tools to lock in for a sendWhat Daniel Woods taught him Half crimp vs full crimp The next V17 on his listThe happiness advantage - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Secret App Launch 02:23 Noah Wheeler Intro 06:33 Goals and Process 11:51 Evolving Through Struggle 18:18 Board Training Origins 21:15 Board Sessions and Volume 24:05 Intentional Climber Break 26:07 Rehab and Burden Prep 31:10 The Dab and Redemption 36:24 Dab Send Debate 37:25 Grading Burden Reality 42:10 V17 Or Downgrade 43:17 New Beta Breakdown 47:12 Micro Beta Anchors 50:20 Arc'teryx Harness Spot 52:06 Nutrition Calorie Wakeup 53:08 Carbs Protein Caffeine 57:11 Tactics Trip Mistakes 59:44 Footwork Pull Away 01:02:39 Grip Strength Weakness 01:05:23 Finger Strength Metrics 01:05:59 Projecting Mindset Phases 01:09:52 Pre Send Mental Crux 01:11:36 Embodiment Tools 01:15:50 Happiness Advantage 01:19:35 What’s Next Plans 01:20:53 Board Style Dreams 01:22:55 We Will Rock Vision 01:25:24 Wrap Up Bonus Plug 01:28:00 Host App Pitch 01:29:28 Climbing Reflections 01:31:59 Final Thanks Outro - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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    1 hr and 33 mins
  • The May Plog: My Endurance Training Plan, Critical Force Assessment, and Realizing I'm a Bad Climber

    The May Plog: My Endurance Training Plan, Critical Force Assessment, and Realizing I'm a Bad Climber
    Jun 1 2026

    Reflecting on my training, performance, and experimentation for the month, including:

    • Recap of May goals (hits and misses)
    • Finding flow and fun outdoors
    • Breaking down my endurance training plan
    • Results from my critical force test
    • How I'm going to maintain strength and power
    • A smack in the face regarding my technique
    • Listener questions
    • June goals

    Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

    Download Intentional Climber on Google Play or the App Store and use code LAUNCHCREW to unlock $300 of free coaching plans, plus a secret discount (ends June 5th).

    Have an awesome month!
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    1 hr and 7 mins
  • Weekend Warrior: From Midwest to V11, Managing Send Anxiety, and Her Breakthrough "5.12 Pact"

    Weekend Warrior: From Midwest to V11, Managing Send Anxiety, and Her Breakthrough "5.12 Pact"
    May 27 2026
    Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow Weekend Warrior, Hannah Provost, is crushing it. In this convo, we explore: Being naturally powerful but struggling with endurance Managing send anxiety and fear of failureA powerful tool to stay present on a climb The untapped potential of breath work Forcing seasonality with training Using hips as a fifth limbThe "pact" that led to a quantum leapCovering historic ascents in the new ACJ Join the AAC by July 1st to get your copy of the American Climbing Journal (amongst other awesome perks): https://americanalpineclub.org/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Anxiety After Belief 00:24 Meet Hannah Provost 06:04 Climbing Origins Indiana 09:19 AAC Work Life Balance 10:40 Boulderer Wants Sport 13:19 Grades And Struggle 14:03 Doubt Cycles Tactics 20:28 Breathwork And Focus 24:08 Seasonal Training Blocks 26:20 Coach Nate Hip Power 29:46 Endurance Sessions 4x4 31:42 Hips As Fifth Limb 33:52 Hips Into Training 34:40 Treadwall Leg Drive 36:05 Beginner Mindset Reset 37:36 The 5.12 Pact 40:37 Exposure Over Sending 43:53 Next Goals Big Papa 46:42 What Is The ACJ 49:28 Stories From The Journal 54:45 AAC Membership Perks 57:31 Hostels And Wrap Up 59:07 Host Takeaways And Links 01:03:35 Training Update And Goodbye - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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    1 hr and 6 mins
  • Tyler Thompson: How to Get More Out of Every Session, Building Capacity, and Tricking Yourself into Sending

    Tyler Thompson: How to Get More Out of Every Session, Building Capacity, and Tricking Yourself into Sending
    May 20 2026
    Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Elite climber Tyler Thompson explores: The process of becoming a pro climber Struggling with training consistencyPreparing for La Rambla (5.15a)His Spain sending spree How to make climb days worth moreStruggling with performance anxiety An epic last-day-last-go send of Era VellaHow to trick yourself into sending - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Arc’teryx: Check out the new Lithos SL harness featuring Warp Strength Technology and fully customizable sizing for an ultra-light sport climbing fit. Build yours at Arcteryx.com PhysiVantage: Try SendureX to improve your power endurance and recover faster between attempts. I love it! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Endurance Mindset Teaser 00:28 Meet Tyler Thompson 03:28 Vegas Base And Background 06:09 From Summer Camp To Youth Team 08:10 Going Full Time Climbing 11:31 What Struggle Means 16:20 Training Balance Outdoors Vs Gym 20:35 Spain Prep And La Rambla 25:39 Endurance Work And Self Assessment 33:11 Nutrition And Recovery Habits 37:23 Tactics Learning And Repetition 41:02 Finding Efficiency And Energy Leaks 42:49 Fresh Beta Experiments 43:19 More Tries More Learning 44:55 Evolving Beta Near Send 45:41 Inventing a New Sequence 49:40 Choose Moves You Love 50:27 Favorite Move Spotlight 51:52 Southern Smoke Send Story 53:59 Remembering Projects Past 54:50 Scarpa Shoe Shoutout 56:15 Performance Anxiety on Redpoints 57:22 Resting and Switching Gears 01:00:42 Era Vella Injury Miracle Send 01:06:10 Trying When Tired Works 01:08:59 Next Projects and Finn Cave 01:10:52 Trips and Dreamcatcher Goals 01:13:59 Finger Rehab Reality Check 01:15:06 Wrap Up and Bonus Episode 01:18:18 Host Training Update 01:22:08 Final Thoughts and Signoff - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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    1 hr and 24 mins
  • The Future of Indoor Climbing

    The Future of Indoor Climbing
    May 13 2026
    Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this live podcast from the CWA, we have Dylan Barks, Jamey Sproull, and Brendan Scorpio joining to discuss the future of indoor climbing, including: Are old school climbers stronger than modern climbers?What has contributed most to the progression of hard climbing? What will the ‘board generation’ mean for outdoor climbs?The future of board technology and specificity Will there be highball gyms?The future of ultra-adjustable wallsHow high can grades go?What is the ideal board angle?What will be the evolution of climbing comps?Two things gyms are sleeping on right now Shout out to the CWA for hosting a great event! If you'd like to get involved with their important work or attend a future CWA conference: https://www.cwapro.org/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!Asana: Whether you're looking to deck inside or out, Asana has got your landing. Incredible pad systems and crash pads, made by climbers who love what they do, and do it really friggin well. Use code STRUGGLE to score 15% off crash pads and 5% off your pad system! And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Modular Wall Teaser 00:26 CWA Live Podcast Intro 03:48 Panel Setup and Goals 04:19 Ryan Training Breakthrough 06:07 Panelist Origin Stories 10:15 Are Climbers Stronger Now 13:26 Tools Driving Progress 15:50 Future of Training Boards 19:42 Gyms in 10 to 50 Years 23:33 Futuristic Walls and Replicas 24:01 Modular Holds Vision 24:42 Adjustable Walls Future 25:45 AI Route Setting Fears 26:18 Making Climbing Accessible 28:14 Pro Grades Next Decade 29:27 Dylan On Grade Progression 31:08 Boards Getting Steeper 32:16 Pro Climbing League Hype 33:59 Skys The Limit 35:08 Host Outro And Cyborg Aid 37:58 Treadwalls For Endurance 40:56 Adult Classes And Leagues 49:58 Intentional Climber Updates 51:22 Final Send Off - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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    52 mins