Between the Chalk and the Sea cover art

Between the Chalk and the Sea

A Journey on Foot into the Past

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Between the Chalk and the Sea

By: Gail Simmons
Narrated by: Fenella Fudge, Barnaby Kay
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About this listen

An old map. A lost pilgrimage route. A journey in search of our walking heritage.

When Henry VIII banned pilgrimage in 1538, he ended not only a centuries-old tradition of walking as an act of faith, but a valuable chance to discover the joy of walking as an escape from the burdens of everyday life.

Much was lost when these journeys faded from our collective memory, but clues to our past remain. On an antique map in Oxford's Bodleian Library, a faint red line threading through towns and villages between Southampton and Canterbury suggests a significant, though long-forgotten, road. Renamed the Old Way, medieval pilgrims are thought to have travelled this route to reach the celebrated shrine of Thomas Becket.

Described as England's Camino, this long-distance footpath carves through one of the nation's most iconic landscapes—one that links prehistoric earthworks, abandoned monasteries, Saxon churches, ruined castles and historic seaports.

Over four seasons, travel writer Gail Simmons walks the Old Way to rediscover what a long journey on foot offers us today. In the age of the car, what does it mean to embrace 'slow travel'? Why does being a woman walking alone still feel like a radical act? In an age when walking connects the nation, can we now reclaim pilgrimage as a secular act?

Winding 250 miles between the chalk hills and shifting seascapes of the south coast, Gail ventures deep into our past, exploring this lost path and telling a story of kings and knights, peasants and pilgrims, of ancient folklore and modern politics. Blending history, anthropology, etymology and geology, Gail's walk along the Old Way reveals the rich natural and cultural heritage found on our own doorstep.

©2023 Gail Simmons (P)2023 Headline Publishing Group Ltd
Nature & Ecology Outdoors & Nature Science Travel Writing & Commentary Royalty

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Critic reviews

"Few books change the way you see familiar landscapes: this is one of them. A sacred, humble and rewarding journey, like the pilgrimage itself." (Ben Rawlence, author of The Treeline and City of Thorns)

"I loved this memoir - centuries of stories captured in the chalk, all told through the prism of one life." (Raynor Winn)

"This is a brilliantly modern take on one of the oldest of literary genres - the pilgrimage narrative. Gail Simmons walks a long-forgotten trail, and along the way encounters places, people and a myriad of obstacles, for who walks so far in today's car-obsessed world? But this is no ordinary walk, but one with a purpose: to discover the meaning of what it means to be British in these troubled and disjointed times." (Stephen Moss)

All stars
Most relevant
Really enjoyed this account of the walk and of the related history. Very well written, and read.

Detailed and enjoyable

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Between the Chalk and the Sea is a walking memoir blending landscape, history and personal reflection with quiet eloquence. Retracing a medieval pilgrim route, Gail weaves folklore, geology and human story into prose that is as steady as her footsteps, lyrical and often profound. A modern pilgrimage, written with grace and grounded insight that makes you want to follow in her footsteps. A celebration of walking alone with your thoughts and a celebration of all those that have gone before.

Beautifully written, grounded in history and place.

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This is a thoroughly enjoyable book, following Gail Simmons on her epic walk from Southampton to Canterbury along an ancient pilgrim path. We experience nature through all four seasons - and all weathers - in visceral detail. The book explores recurring themes of solitude, nature, ancient and sacred places and the enduring attraction of pilgrimage even in our secular age. Highly recommended for anyone who loves travel writing, medieval history, walking and, of course, the chalk and the sea.

To be a Pilgrim

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This audio book had been in my library for some time. For some reason I had not listened beyond the first few chapters.
Searching for my next listen I gave it a try.
I loved hearing about the pilgrimage walk to Canterbury over 4 seasons.
It was good to hear, for a change about the joys of walking and nature without the normal depressing talk of how everything is rapidly declining and the damage that we have done. This declining habit loss is a constant theme in most books. I am aware of this but nice not to have it a doment subject all the time.
Good narration as well.

Enjoyable listen

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Some very interesting facts and observations. Sadly I really struggled with the hammy narration. Some of the pronunciation was inaccurate. The author made a pointed and ill advised comment regarding conservation and I wanted her to have extended her research for a more balanced perspective. I wanted to love it as a person fascinated by the mediaeval but I didn’t finish the book due to the above. Shame. Perhaps I’ll persist with a paper copy if I find one.

A bit disappointed

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